Day 3 - Apr 12th - Halifax: Visit to a Cemetery, Museum and Fish & Chips

"Dick and Sandy began to play Amazing Grace on their bagpipes at this hallowed spot. I looked up from my camera monitor and was stunned to see a small crowd that had gathered around me with dozens of cameras, including large news format,  pointed toward this touching memorial. "

In spite of a late night before talking, I found myself up before the alarm.  Another visit to my new morning favorite spot, the Spa, for a steam, shower and shave. Dressed quickly I could enjoy a light breakfast and then headed down to meet Dick and Sandy who were beautifully adorned in full traditional Scottish kilts with bagpipes in hand. 


Along was another gentleman, Harlan, from Milwaukee who had earlier befriended Dick and Sandy.  Our arrival in Halifax was prompt and we were off the Azamara Journey and back on terra firma by 9:30am.  We lost Harlan for a few minutes as got caught taking several photos for passers by of a Halifax guard in traditional kilt next to a TITANIC 100th Anniversary banner.  It was a quick ride to Fairview Cemetery with a brief sightseeing tour on the way, passing the restaurant that was once the SNOW funeral home where so many victims were tended to. 


Our timing was excellent as there were barely a few people there, but many more arrived shortly thereafter. Chills went down my spine and up the back of my neck as  Dick and Sandy began to play Amazing Grace on their bagpipes at this hallowed spot. 


I looked up from my camera monitor and was stunned to see a small crowd that had gathered around me with dozens of cameras, including large news format,  pointed toward this touching memorial. 

The presentation was then repeated, with Dick and Sandy now walking along past each of the small dark grey headstones. The date on every stone, one after the other - whether for a named or for an unknown victim - each read April 15, 1912. 

The taxi was waiting with the meter running, so we headed back towards the center of town. I dropped Dick, Sandy and Harlan off at the Citadel underneath the clock tower and I headed back briefly. My next stop was to the Red Stag Tavern nearby for some of the best Fish n Chips in Nova Scotia and a Lager shandy. 


I learned that my waitress, a lovely young woman named Brianna Kioski had a Great Grandmother, Mara Osman, who was a third class passenger and Survivor on TITANIC. Apparently this relative had come across, like so many immigrants, searching a new life. She was one of the lucky few who made it to CARPATHIA. Ms. Kioski said she had only recently learned of this family history and she that other relatives were recently interviewed for a book.  It has become 1 degree of separation in every direction.

Afterwards I had to stop by the Halifax Museum of the Atlantic to check out the new Cable Ship exhibit that had just opened this morning as well as the Titanic artifacts. 


Many of the items on display were picked up by the cable boats as they pulled bodies out of the water. Included is an actual deck chair, sections of wood, an ornately carved part of the arch above an entrance into the First Class lounge, piece of a column, a pantry cabinet, gloves, and a pair of shoes thought to belong to the Unknown Infant. 

Further Gallery included below.  Regarding this longtime unidentified child, recent DNA testing allowed for a positive ID and a new headstone was added to the Fairview grave of this young victim as Sydney Leslie Goodwin. A wall gallery features close up photographs of 150 headstones of TITANIC victims from several of the local Halifax Cemeteries. 

After the museum it was a nice walk along the Halifax waterfront to grab some more video and stills. Shortly thereafter it was back to the warm comfort of the Azamara Journey drawing room to catch up on my blog entries.

 As 5 o’clock nears and we are getting ready to sail,  I felt a literal chill thinking that after this port our next stop is, indeed, going to be right over TITANIC. 

Perhaps Jack Dawson?

Needless to say, there is a calm sense of normalcy as the evening drew on. A cabaret show, cocktails, folks burning off calories in the Looking glass lounge.  Assorted guests mingled in period costume, constantly drawing attention of cameras. Conversations continue with speculations about what we will encounter as we get closer to Titanic with further discussions about the White Star Liner and her history. 

Day 2 - First Full Day At Sea - Lectures & Conversation

"Bill Miller delighted with his vibrant style as he took the stage with a much brighter look at the Grand Ocean Liners of yesteryear, the 'Floating Palaces'.” 

Up relatively early Wednesday morning, I took advantage of the cozy spa facilities on Azamara Journey.  As a complimentary service one can use the octagonal steam room adjacent to the showers. Very modern, recessed halogen lights that create illuminated columns in the mist.  A morning steam is not only relaxing, but opens the pores so your skin can breath... or at least that’s what the brochure says! The showers are significantly larger in the Spa than in the cabins, plus the high end shampoos and body wash are very nice. 













At 9:25am there was an announcement made that John Langley’s talk on Halifax was going to start in five minutes time. John is President of the World Cunard Historical Society, and a lifetime Halifax resident.  I swore he had said his lecture was moved from 10am to 10:30am.  


I made a mad dash to grab a croissant and then headed towards the Cabaret where John was already underway with his fascinating history of this vital Nova Scotia seaport. His presentation was accompanied by a wonderful slide presentation. Turns out that Bill and I, embarrassingly became “one of those people” that simply did not read directions about a one hour clock advance that had occurred last night. This was in spite of the fact that an adorable purser had informed us, in no uncertain terms, that the time would not change until Wednesday night!!  We both should know much better by now!

John’s presentation created an excitement and almost urgency about seeing Halifax, but then turned from a general history to much more of a deep connection between the city and TITANIC. And it became a particularly dark side of that history.  New York was chosen as the best port to bring the survivors, which holds some sense of optimism and life out of the tragedy. 

Mackay - Bennett
Museum of the Atlantic Collection

However, Halifax is where so many of the bodies were brought by cable ships that were best suited for the job. These ships were part of the massive efforts to lay the early transatlantic cables that allowed faster communication between the continents, an incredible new technology.  

Undertaker William Snow preparing a body on MINIA.
Museum of the Atlantic Collection

John showed many photographs of the preparations on board these ships to bring the bodies back and talked of how the first 200 on some ships were buried at sea, mostly out of a lack of deck space. Gruesome images were projected of canvas body bags, reserved for mostly steerage passengers and crew with wood caskets for the first class victims. Even in death there was such a separation.  Further description of how the Cable boats thought they were hitting small chunks of ice as they arrived at the scene, only to discover they were bodies. Smaller rowboats were deployed from the Mackay-Bennett, for example, filled to capacity, their cargo tossed onto the large vessel, then back for more. Seemingly endless trips. 

Body Bag #41, Halifax Museum of the Atlantic. 

Then “illegal” photographs of the horse drawn hearses carting the bodies away in Halifax, partially hidden behind canvas barriers to keep gawking crowds from seeing the activity. Then and now photos of locations where bodies were stored and embalmed - a curling rink that was used as a temporary morgue because of the ice on the floors.  


Further images show Fairview Cemetery where the largest number of victims are interred. Truly a somber introduction to where we are going and harsh reminder of why we are on this voyage. A deep sadness filled my heart. 

Later, Bill Miller delighted with his vibrant style as he took the stage with a much brighter look at the Grand Ocean Liners of yesteryear, the “Floating Palaces”.  As many times as I have watched and adored Bill Miller in action, I never tire of his glamourous take on the elegance that was Ocean Liner travel. I love watching the crowds, many now new life long fans listening with rapt attention, laughing at his ingenious punch lines as he sails his audience back to another time.   


I helped man the “book shop” table and nearly most of his books were sold out before Bill ever uttered a word.  I was particularly pleased that a healthy supply of my DVD documentary of Bill “MR OCEAN LINER” also quickly sold out! 


Later at afternoon tea with John Langley, his lovely wife Judy, and some other guests we  found ourselves engrossed in further discussions of Maritime history, Titanic lore, Marconi communications and codes and speculation about ways that history has repeated. 


After dinner a Captain’s reception, typical on most sailing these days, introduced the top brass on Azamara Journey. All along, all day have been the Cameramen from CNN, German television, the reporter and photographer from New York Post. In between I have been capturing my own video digest of the events. Lastly, a  moving Chopin concert by a wonderful pianist who was also a friend of Bill Miller.  I was then introduced to a couple from Montana that brought along their bagpipes and who wanted to play some music at Fairview Cemetery in the morning.  I told them I would be happy to go along and record this little memorial. We made plans to meet by the Grand Staircase at 9:30am the next day.  Hopefully there will be no more time changes!


The night rounded off in the Lookout where a corner of this forward bar, with floor to ceiling windows on the front of the ship, was taken over by a small group enjoying a range of music from Journey to Abba.  Even there, with green and red laser lights flashing around the room, glinting off the sloped glass while FERNANDO played in the background, the conversation again turned to why so many of us, for various reasons, are all on this ship together heading towards the final resting spot of TITANIC.  

For many it is an unexplained life long connection. One couple flew all the way from Sydney, Australia to be here.  We also talked about how many have had conversations with others back home who have commented that it is “sick” or “ strange” to want to be at the site of TITANIC on the 100th Anniversary. We all voiced the same response that this is, by no means, a joy trip.  Although there are those who have chosen to express their love and fascination for all things TITANIC in their period dress or expression, no one is “celebrating”. There is a very serious deep respect for the horror of what occurred 100 years ago. This voyage is, indeed, a memorial, a chance to pay respects to the memory of these lives and this history. And in the process we are also making new friends that share a common bond. 

ICEBERGS!

"April 2nd’s chart show as many as 32 bergs in a quadrant right off the coast of Newfoundland, with a stray berg heading rather far South to 45 N."

One of the multiple reasons CARPATHIA Captain Arthur Henry Rostron decided to head directly to New York with the TITANIC survivors, rather than the closer city of Halifax, was due to the vast spread of ice that would be seen between the Canadian port and the rescue location.  Rostron felt it would be excessively traumatic for the survivors to see any more icebergs and ice floes than necessary.  A northward track would only go deeper into the ice. 




In contemplating the route of this upcoming TITANIC 100th Anniversary Memorial cruise on the Azamara Journey I started to wonder what ice conditions would be like for us in 2012, one hundred years later.  On a standard Great Circle Route between New York and Southampton ships can simply alter their course further south, if necessary, to avoid icebergs.  We, however, are purposely going to Halifax, then direct to TITANIC’s final resting spot of 41°43'57"N, 49°56'49"W, then back to New York.  If icebergs drift south this time of year, there would be no alternate route as we must be at a very specific location! 

A little research brought me to a fascinating Canadian website  http://ice-glaces.ec.gc.ca/ Canadian Ice Service  with endless data about ice coverage, icebergs and weather conditions throughout Canada’s navigable waters.  There you can see overview charts of where ice has spread and then click on regions for a closer look.  In addition, there is a special daily chart that illustrates in latitude and longitudinal squares an analysis of how many icebergs are within each grid.  There is a marked overall range limit for ice sightings.  April 2nd’s chart show as many as 32 bergs in a quadrant right off the coast of Newfoundland, with a stray berg heading rather far South to 45 N. This is still quite a distance away from TITANIC’s location, but there are still almost two weeks left to go until the anniversary when several ships will gather. 

Icebergs are each very unique, however there are some basic descriptive types: "Pinnacle" icebergs have a more mountainous appearance with sharp points or peaks. A "Drydock" iceberg may have two or more heads  above water with a center submerged area creating a lagoon or central area resembling a ship dry dock.  "Wedge" icebergs may be simply a giant wedge of ice with a sharp edge looming out of the sea. "Tabular" icebergs may have a large flat top with steep sides, typically these are massive chunks of ice that break away from ice shelves. 

Supposedly, this is the iceberg that TITANIC hit.

From various witness reports the iceberg that supposedly collided with TITANIC was a non-tabular, possibly  pinnacle type berg.  Some thought that a sailing ship was going past at a close distance because of three distinct peaks, one smaller on the left and right, with a taller peak in the middle which looked like the masts of a boat.  The following day, other witnesses claim that a berg matching this description had scrapings of red paint bearing the battle scars of an incursion. 


Personally, I think it would be incredible to see real icebergs. Even J Bruce Ismay testified that he had never in his life seen icebergs prior to the morning of April 15th 1912. However, no doubt everyone on board these anniversary voyages would be more comfortable if any drifting ice was at a very safe distance.  No one wants a repeat of the horrors from a century before. 

Titanic and Prophecy

"Similarities are chilling..both liners were “unsinkable”, both hit icebergs, both met with disaster in the month of April, and both ships were approximately 400 miles from Newfoundland traveling at over 20 knots."

The page reads:

“And with her keel cutting the ice like the steel runner of an iceboat, and her great weight resting on the starboard bilge, she rose out of the sea, higher and higher–until the propellers in the Stern were half exposed–then, meeting in easy, spiral rise in the ice under her port bow, she heeled, overbalanced, and crashed down on her side, to starboard.” 

The dramatic text continues:

“The holding down bolts of 12 boilers and 3 triple expansion engines, unintended to hold such weights from a perpendicular flooring, snapped, and down through a maze of ladders, gratings, and fore-and-aft bulkheads came these giant masses of steel and iron, puncturing the sides of the ship.” 

And further still:

“Amid the roar of escaping steam, and the bee like buzzing of nearly 3000 human voices, raised in agonized screams and calling from within the enclosed walls, and the whistling of air through hundreds of open dead lights is the water, entering the holes of the crushed and riven starboard side...”

This is not an excerpt from the New York Times or London Illustrated News in April of 1912, rather this text is quoted from Morgan Robertson’s novella “The Wreck of the Titan”, originally published as “Futility” in 1898, fourteen years before the Titanic’s fateful Maiden Voyage.  Other similarities are chilling, besides the very names being so close. Both liners were “unsinkable”, both hit icebergs, both met with disaster in the month of April, and both ships were approximately 400 miles from Newfoundland traveling at over 20 knots.

Published in 1976, Clive Cussler fans enjoyed further adventures of action hero Dirk Pitt in Cussler’s fantasy novel “Raise the Titanic”. Along with the subsequent film adaptation of the novel released in 1980, here was another uncanny precursor to actual events connected with Titanic. 


In “Raise the Titanic” a rare substance, byzanium, is needed for a major defense project. The only known quantity of this substance sank in the cargo holds of the RMS Titanic back in 1912. In order for his world saving mission to succeed, Pitt must locate Titanic and find a way to access the byzanium.  Pitt and his team locate the sunken wreck using deep-sea submersibles, sonar and other technology that would foreshadow the stunning real life efforts of Bob Ballard in 1985. Ballard discovered the debris field surrounding Titanic and then found the remains of the great White Star liner herself on the bottom of the Atlantic.  In Cussler’s version, Titanic’s hull was intact and was brought to the surface,  Perhaps Ballard may have been inspired by this written and cinematic fantasy to create reality, but nonetheless it’s a remarkable connection.

Without question, these works of fiction were created prior to the true events of history. Perhaps there is some sort of ethereal energy or connection with “the other side” where future visions were channeled into the minds of these authors to share a projection of what was to come.  Contemplate, for just a moment, what other works of contemporary fiction of disaster, innovation or modern development will prove true in the decades to come. It cannot be as simple as common logic, which would dictate these futures, for the details of both “The Wreck of the Titan” and “Raise the Titanic” are far too specific to real life events.

Bill Miller Interview - Part II

"This is not the 92nd anniversary, this is the 100th anniversary where we are going right to the very spot where it happened. "

In Part 2 of my interview with Maritime Historian and Author Bill Miller, “MR. OCEAN LINER”, we continued to discuss the the Costa CONCORDIA incident and then talked more about our upcoming voyage on the AZAMARA JOURNEY to the site of the TITANIC disaster on the 100th Anniversary of her sinking. Below is a preview clip from MR OCEAN LINER - The Life And Times of Bill Miller, available online from www.MrOceanLiner.com

RNM - So Bill,  we talked about what has changed in light of the CONCORDIA accident. What do you think has NOT changed in 100 years since TITANIC?


BM - It's a combination of the mechanical and the human element, just like any form of transport -  hideous accidents can occur and today a ship can sink, just as we've seen with the CONCORDIA or other disasters that have occurred within the last last 50/60 years or so. Also, the fact that human error will continue until the very end of time. There will always be that element of miscalculation, simple mistakes, simple things that could have been so easily avoided. Not even a major or highly technical area, just simple things.  This will always be the case and that has not changed.  So, although ships are no longer being described as “unsinkable,” they are still - just like the TITANIC was - very subject to the elements and all the things that go with travel and voyages.


RNM - What do you think you're looking forward to most about this upcoming TITANIC 100th Anniversary sailing?


BM - I'm looking forward to two things:  One, it's taking part in what I consider to be a very historic event. This is wonderful for someone like me because it's useful for future writings,  for lectures.  It’s taking part in a pivotal event, something that's very significant.  This is not the 92nd anniversary, this is the 100TH anniversary where we are going right to the very spot where it happened.  The second part is participating with all the fellow speakers and passengers who are all all interested in the topic.  It's sort of like going to the bowling club - You don't have to ask “Do you bowl?” You know they bowl! They are all there for that reason, so we all share, in an indirect or direct way, an interest in ocean liners and TITANIC. So, to spend 8 days with them I think is fascinating.


RNM - What do you think you will take away from this voyage?


BM - The memory of being there and experiencing this event.  You know,  I can't predict how I will feel 11:40 at night, or over the spot at 2:20 am when we are standing on the deck. It might be chilly,  just as it was 100 years ago. In a way it’s going back, but at the same time bringing it forward. I'll always be able to say I was somehow directly connected the TITANIC because I was on the 100th anniversary cruise.  So I think that's what I'll bring back. It’s also a kind of spiritual feeling, perhaps, and as I said earlier the connection to it will intensify.  Commodore Ronald Warwick [of the QE2 and Queen Mary 2] told me that when he went down in the diving submersible he felt so much closer to the whole thing because he was right there next to the wreckage... next to the TITANIC on the bottom of the Atlantic. I'm not going down to the bottom, but this will be getting as close as most ordinary folks can get by being on the very site, on the very moment, 100 years later.


RNM - Would you want to go down in a submersible to TITANIC if you could? Would you go?

BM - I would go, yes.  I would certainly go.  I'm not an adventurer, someone who would hike up the Himalayas or jump out of planes,  but I would take a chance and go because of the value of doing something like that would be tremendous. Think of the experience!  You can relay that to others through lectures and writing. I think it would be very fascinating and I’d make a big issue about it if I went down. I'd make a big issue of telling people about it.


RNM - Many have commented over the years that many similar elements and artifacts from TITANIC’s time are in existence today because of her sister ship OLYMPIC - much of the same  woodwork,  the design, plus other historical items of that era, clothing, dishes,  memorabilia.  Peoples ask “Why do we need to go to TITANIC?” when most everything that was on TITANIC can be found elsewhere.  What are your thoughts on this?

(Cristoforo Columbo 1st Class Lounge Source: Brochure)

BM - I suppose when it comes down to the bottom line it's because it's not the real McCoy.  Some items exist from the OLYMPIC, but it's the items directly connected to the TITANIC that people want.  They push the envelope a little further, I think.  If someone had a chair from the CRISTOFORO COLOMBO, the sister of the ANDREA DORIA, they might say “Well it's not from the ANDREA DORIA ... that's the ship I wanted it from.” Some people want exactly the real thing. Some would be quite happy with something from the OLYMPIC or the COLOMBO, but many people want the real thing.”

RNM - Any closing thoughts?

BM - It's now about three weeks before the voyage and I can feel my own sense of excitement mounting. I'm looking forward to it. It will be special, unique.  And, it’s because I'm doing three special trips this year -  the second is the Queen's Jubilee sailing on the QUEEN MARY 2 and the QUEEN ELIZABETH. Then P&O's 175th anniversary in July when their seven liners all sail from Southampton all at the same time.  So, I feel I'm very lucky this year to participate in the top three ocean liner events. This is a year of celebrations. I feel, not in the same way as the Titanic which is much more spiritual and emotional, but I feel connected with these pivotal links to ships and other aspects their history. It intensifies the link to these sorts of things.   Plus we will relay this, share it, get new insights into TITANIC from people on board like Ken Marschall, John Langley, and Günter Bäbler, others like that.  People can look forward to scribblings, future writings.  I will write about it. I’ll be able speak more afterwards through my lectures, perhaps in book form. To tell the story with clarity, once I've been there, and then bring it to the podium or with a word processor.


RNM - I want to thank Bill Miller, once again, for his time and wonderful insights. There will be much more to come as we get closer to the April 10th 2012 departure of AZAMARA JOURNEY from the New York West Side piers and as we set sail on a course to rendezvous with history. 

TITANIC 100th Anniversary Cruise Itinerary

Itinerary and Day by Day description of the planned TITANIC Anniversary Azamara Journey sailing:

Day	Ports of Call	Arrive	Depart	Description
Tuesday 10th Apil	New York - USA		5:00pm	We depart New York today on our voyage of a lifetime on this momentous occasion, exactly 100 years to the day that the Titanic departed Southampton (UK)
Wed 11th April	At Sea			Whilst making our way to Halifax you will have time relax and enjoy our elegant ship indulging in the wonderful onboard facilities. Our specialist lecturers will also begin telling the fascinating story of the Titanic.
Thu 12th April	Halifax - Nova Scotia, Canada	9:00am	5:00pm	We arrive in Halifax, which has one of the most moving and intimate connections with the Titanic disaster, playing a key role during the tragedy's aftermath and becoming the final resting place of many of her unclaimed victims. There is plenty to see and do in Halifax; you will have the opportunity of visiting Fairview Lawn Cemetery where victims of the RMS Titanic sinking are interred. There will be other interesting excursions on offer for those of you who want to travel further a field from Halifax.
Fri 13th April	At Sea			Today our lectures will be based around life on board the Titanic 100 years ago as we approach the site of the Titanics resting place.
Sat 14th April	Titanic Site(41°43'57"N, 49°56'49"W)	5:00pm		Today is a day of reflection leading up to the evenings memorial events.
Sun 15th April	Titanic Site / At Sea		4:00am	We will hold a memorial service at 2:20am to commemorate the 100th year anniversary and to pay tribute to all the brave passengers and crew on board that fateful night.
Mon 16th April Tue 17th April	At Sea			Our final two days at sea gives us chance to socialise with new friends and acquaintances and to enjoy the ships fabulous facilities for last time.
Wed 18th April	New York	07:00am		Our Historic voyage brings us back to New York the Titanic’s intended destination. Here we admire the glitz, glamour and bright lights of the Big Apple, visit one of the cities many Museums, join a titanic tour, shop till you drop or even take in a Broadway show. Whatever you decide we are sure that this epic adventure will leave you with no shortage of experiences and memories to talk about.

Courtesy:  Miles Morgan Travel www.TitanicAniversaryCruise.Com