Showing posts with label iceberg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label iceberg. Show all posts

Monday, April 16, 2012

Day 5 - Part II April 14/15th 2012 - TITANIC Collision, Sinking & Memorial

"The BALMORAL was ablaze with lights a few hundred yards away from us. You could look at this other ship and image what TITANIC may have looked like, the reflections in the water"




As darkness set in it was still quiet around the ship. The central pool area was cleared of all deck chairs and tables to make room for the night’s memorial. I gathered some very warm layers, hat, gloves, and scarf and wandered about a bit. Many eyes were scanning the horizon for BALMORAL to appear and this continued in the black that now surrounded us. I sat in the forward observation lounge, Looking Glass, with floor to ceiling windows, chatting with a lovely couple from Fullerton, California when we could make out what looked like a tiny star in front of us. This bluish white twinkling light bobbed rather noticeably up and down, most likely the BALMORAL approaching from the West.  Instantly conversation turned to speculation about how far away this ship was and if this is what the “mystery ship” may have looked like in 1912 to TITANIC. It is still a topic of debate whether or not the non responsive CALIFORNIAN was that unknown vessel.




I felt compelled to keep checking my iphone clock to see where we were on the timeline. As we approached 11:25pm I was thinking that it was around this time that the CALIFORNIAN wireless operator Cyril Evans was listening to transmissions from Cape Race for TITANIC, only 10 minutesbefore he put down his headset and went to bed, a mere 5 minutes before TITANIC would collide with fate.

BALMORAL was looming larger and larger and within moments the Captain made a chilling announcement that it was exactly 11:40pm, 100 years to the minute that TITANIC struck the iceberg.  In my mind a running countdown began to tick, marking how much time was left. I wanted to get a sense of what would have been happening as events unfolded. What would it have felt like that night in relation to what people did and how quickly or slowly would time have passed.


It is said that the first distress call C.Q.D. did not go out until 12:10am, 30 minutes after the incursion. For us, the night air was cold, as described in 1912. You could see your breath if up on the top deck.  People clustered next to doors and in alcoves to find some temporary warmth.  The BALMORAL was ablaze with lights a few hundred yards away from us. You could look at this other ship and image what TITANIC may have looked like, the reflections in the water, the dark sky. 

We had a partially overcast night to start, but as the evening went on the clouds would part and there would be a blanket of stars above us.  I imagined that during these 30 minutes TITANIC was already experiencing serious flooding, the mail room was already compromised and the lower front decks were filling quickly. Watertight doors were coming down. Some already knew the serious nature of what had happened. Many would still be asleep, others would be coming up on deck to see what was going on.  Just on our ship, more people wandered about, but no crowds.  Azamara Journey was solid under our feet and at this time TITANIC would have still felt just as steadfast.



An announcement was made at 12:10am, 30 minutes later, marking the time the first CQD was transmitted and a communications officer on our ship recreated the actual signal which was broadcast throughout our ship. Rather than the Hollywood crisp sound effects, this electric static buzzing with gaps, dots and dashes was chilling to hear. Stunning how long it took after the collision for this  cry of help to go out.

As time moved on I could see in my mind's eye as lifeboats would be prepared and dropped with more and more people gathering on deck, bundling up in the cold, right here at this very spot, or relatively close as there is a general consensus that reported positions may have been slightly off. In reality, TITANIC would no doubt have drifted in the current some appreciable distance to end up more or less at the spot where we were, directly above the boilers or ground zero on the map.

There were several moments where I would look over the railing down at the water, still beneath us without movement, as it was. The lights of our ship reflecting off the surface. This would have been the view seen 100 years ago. The very sensations of being out on deck at this spot and under this sky.

12:20am on the clock - from this point there would have been two hours left.  How serious was it now on TITANIC? Most likely more activity, questioning, crowds gathering. So many would look out into the darkness and see those small boats drifting away and it must have seemed absurd to leave the solid platform of TITANIC.

On Azamara in the main lounge hundreds gathered at names of the victims were read. On an oddly designed checkerboard screen a large photo of TITANIC was projected and  in the center a name would briefly appear as it was announced. Then another. And another, and another, another, another into a seemingly endless list. Some names popped up that were familiar from popular history, but most unknown loved ones, husbands, mothers, entire families. An absurd reality as a few selected names were common and were names of friends today, but of course no connection. There were simply so many, over 1,500 lost that there were bound to be dozens of names that echoed to others in the crowd. Sobering. Sadness. 





Back up on deck, people milling about. The minutes ticking down and stinging awareness of how terrifying it must have now started to feel on TITANIC. The front portion of the ship would be much more under water and a list and tilt much more noticeable. I looked across at BALMORAL transferring TITANIC into her position.

Then 1:30AM came quickly. TITANIC would now only have 50 more minutes until it’s final plunge. Waves of emotions rocked me. Everything became surreal. What could these people be thinking at this point, not knowing how much time was left. Everything was becoming so much more of an urgency, more frantic, the battles over who got into lifeboats and who didn’t. The realization that TITANIC was slipping out underneath them and their only salvation was in these tiny boats.  And the cold was burning after being outside so long.  My toes were icy, my cheeks numb. How could these people manage, looking back at the ship, stepping away from the comfort and warmth, not believing what they were seeing? 




1: 53am - 27 Minutes left. From this point in time, it would still be a little over two hours before CARPATHIA would arrive on the scene. I do not know the timeline as well as the experts do, but I would imagine that the most horrific part of the break up, the explosions, snapping of cables, crashing, one of the Funnels breaking loose and crashing down on those struggling. This was all happening, or beginning to happen around this point.


As we reached 2:00am the small stage on the outer pool deck was buzzing with activity. Suddenly the deck was covered with people. They came from nowhere, gathering. Just as the crowds began to scramble on deck in those final moments described by so many. Perhaps not only just steerage passengers who had to fight their way out from the bowels of TITANIC, but many may
 have stayed inside for the warmth until the last possible moment until the angle and motion of the foundering ship became too much.  This would be the time to scramble for your life.  Feeling the air this night, that would not have been an unreasonable supposition.

A benediction began with prayers, echoed back by the Azamara Journey Guests, the final moments were taken then with a Wreath laying ceremony dropped off the port side of the ship.


Soon it was 2:10am, then quickly came 2:15am. Here we stood on the very spot as the most horrific nightmare befell every person involved. The extreme violence of disaster, crushing, breaking, twisting, the sounds of terrified screams, those in the boats watching their loved ones die only yards away and unable to do anything.

It was 2:20AM the time of TITANIC's death. Gasping final moments for those who clung desperately to what remained of TITANIC as she tilted more onto her port side, dumping frightened victims into the icy water. She then slid underneath, washing others overboard, taking so many down with her and leaving hundreds thrashing on the surface. BALMORAL blasted her horn across the water.  Azamara Journey blasted her horn - long - heartbreaking. The string orchestra stood in a row, poised before silently walking to the center stage area. Then they began “Nearer My God To Thee”. You could hear so many openly weeping. Here we all were at this

moment in time, 100 years later at this very hallowed location, remembering all those souls as part of an historic tragedy that would forever change history and maritime law.
(Gouache on Board/Lithograph)


After the music played, the lights were simply dimmed and the stage went dark.  Most stood in stunned silence for a moment then quietly went away.  Lingering crowds gathered to chat, to thank the Captain and priest, the musicians, to take photos and to find some comfort with new found friends who shared this uncanny connection.

Although everyone was walking away and it was now around 2:40am, this would have been the most horrific time of all that early morning of now April 15th.  It would have been at this very moment that the lifeboats lingered while the mass cries and moans of the dying would fill the star lit sky. A swath of humanity would be slowly freezing to death, giving in to the numbing cold; giving up; praying for peace to come quickly.

 A crystal clear night of stars then appeared.  You could see the center of the milky way itself.  A glow to the east looked like the northern lights, which did not make any sense. Soon, a waning crescent moon rose about the low level distant clouds, reflecting a silver path across the water.

BALMORAL slowly began to drift further away and we made our way inside to the comfort and warmth. This was all almost too much to take in.  It was now almost 3:00am and it would be another hour before CARPATHIA would arrive.  We could protect ourselves in the lounge of a liner today, but those that were in the lifeboats 100 years ago had no escape. I cannot begin to imagine what they must have suffered. They had no idea that CARPATHIA would be there and the massive preparations that were going on to meet them and bring salvation.

I purposely wanted to stay awake to continue to experience the timeline of what happened.  A few of us were still in the lounge talking, reflecting, discussing what would have been going on at this juncture. We noted when it was 4:00am, the time of CARPATHIA's arrival on the scene, still dark outside. It was also at this time that it felt like Azamara Journey began to move again, or at least pick up speed to head away from this special place.

By 4:15am I started to notice a reflection in the window of the lounge that I thought came from internal lights. But a moment later I realized it was the light bluish shape of clouds in the sky as dawn was just barely breaking. We headed out on deck and I had to take a breath as I remembered the words of Captain Rostron as he described seeing many more of the lifeboats in the area, surrounded by ice as the early light of day illuminated the area.  Here I was looking out at these very waters at to the east the very early dusky twilight was, indeed, giving full view across the water to the horizon.  The glow slowly got brighter while it was still dark to the west.  It would have been at this time that the first survivors would be coming aboard CARPATHIA.  She would have everyone aboard, recover many of the lifeboats, and leave the scene around 8:30 am, four hours later, just as the CALIFORNIAN was arriving.

Witnesses on both ships, including MOUNT TEMPLE who also arrived across the ice floes in the area, and other ships stated emphatically that hardly any wreckage nor bodies were found. MOUNT TEMPLE did not know that TITANIC had actually gone under. It was several days later when passing ships would encounter a gruesome scene of hundreds of bodies and wreckage. There is still debate and discussion, but the ice had most likely gathered and hidden the bodies on the surface, much like cranberries floating on water being pushed aside.

Exhausted and drained, I finally got some sleep, my mind reeling from this experience.





Saturday, April 14, 2012

Day 4 - Apr 13 - Formal Nights, Last Suppers & History


"As the sun set over the north atlantic preparations were underway for tonight’s Formal event - Last Dinner on TITANIC where the restaurant re-created the final menu as served in First Class."


It is my hope to create a sense of what it is actually like day to day on this voyage. To capture a feeling of the growing anticipation and energy of this so very strange gathering. By now, everyone has settled into a very comfortable mode. People are especially friendly, not only because of the mutual interst of why everyone is aboard this special charger, but also due to the intimate size of the Azamara Journey. Certainly this is a vast difference when compared to a mega ocean liner such as Queen Mary 2.  At every turn there are now familiar faces and new acquaintances.


On these full days at sea everyone can take advantage of the wealth of knowledge imported by the various experts on board.  Today has been a series of multiple talks and lectures packed with fascinating facts, information and history. 


The first talk this morning was just on collecting TITANIC books. My initial reaction was how much can one say about collecting books, but the presentation was fascinating spanning over 100 years of writings on this history of TITANIC from pre-launch construction profiles to dozens of biographies of survivors, analysis and renderings of that tragic “Night to Remember” forward to Ken Marschall’s spectacular art and other contemporary works. 


With only a short break to grab a cup of tea was a new topic by Cunard Historical Society Charman John Langley on one of the most important, yet under appreciated elements connected with TITANIC. John presented an in depth background into the life of the Cunard liner CARPATHIA and her heroic Captain Henry Rostron. Over the past century very little has been brought out about the one ship that actually rescued all of the surviving passengers and crew. 


Next came a dual talk by Brigitte Saar and Gunter Bäbler on Icebergs and the search to determine which was the very berg that collided with TITANIC. Supported by stunning photographs taken in Greeland of glaciers and icebergs in the massive flow of ice that slowly makes its way southward. Apparently it can be over a three year journey for an iceberg from the arctic down into the North Atlantic shipping lanes.  


Further details provided forensic evidence from vintage postcards and accounts to present day scientific research that strongly suggests and identifies a photo of the very iceberg culprit.  This talk was wrapped up with some spectacular preview images by artist Gerry Hofstetter of projections made onto the side of huge icebergs.  Hofstetter is famous for his high end technique to turn huge buildings into works of art. The images we saw of a nearly lifesize TITANIC projected on a berg, Captain Smith, the submerged bow of TITANIC, will supposedly be publicly projected on this 100th Anniversary. 
Gerry Hofstetter projection
These three lectures filled a lion share of the day, almost a university Master’s Class on al things TITANIC.  A little overwhelming, but endlessly fascinating and certainly adding to the special tone of this experience.


I took a moment to iron a shirt for tonight’s events and while in the Deck 7 Laundrette the sometimes surreal absurdity of this voyage caught me off guard as the small television screen in the corner was showing, of all films, RAISE THE TITANIC! 


As the sun set over the north atlantic preparations were underway for tonight’s Formal event - Last Dinner on TITANIC where the restaurant re-created the final menu as served in First Class.  Tonight was the time to wear either Tuxedo or period costume.  I decided to dress in my black tux with the period bowler had and fur collard overcoat. It was almost spooky to walk the decks and wood paneled drawing rooms with so many stepping back to 1912. The entrance into the main dining hall is adorned with small mirror squares and the reflection back was uncanny. 





A photographer from New York Post asked if he could take photos and a series were posed toasting a party at dinner and walking down the hall, adorned with two beautiful young ladies on my arms in full garb.



The night was beautifully capped off by a delightful conversation with Cruise Director Tony and his wife Christine. It was confirmed that on the way back to New York after the memorial rendezvous with TITANIC they would set up a reading of excerpts from my play 41W 50N adapted from and based on the US Senate Hearings.  

The timing could not be more perfect for the subject matter and it’s intricate connection to all that has happened and been presented on board.  Next on Saturday is the arrival at the last reported position of TITANIC and then crossing southeast to the final resting site. 

Below is the evening's menu:









Oysters Findlay
Consomme Olga
or 
Cream of Barley Soup
Poached Salmon with Mousseline Sauce
Lamb with Mint Sauce
or
Filet Mingnon Lili
or
Chicken Lyonnaise
or
Curried Vegetables and Rice
Punch Romaine
Asparagus Salad with Champagne Saffron Vinagrette
Waldorf Pudding
or
Chocolate Painted Eclairs with French Vanilla Cream
or
Peaches in Chartreuse Jelly
Assorted Fresh Fruit and Cheeses













Day 3 - Apr 12th - Halifax: Visit to a Cemetery, Museum and Fish & Chips


"Dick and Sandy began to play Amazing Grace on their bagpipes at this hallowed spot. I looked up from my camera monitor and was stunned to see a small crowd that had gathered around me with dozens of cameras, including large news format,  pointed toward this touching memorial. "

In spite of a late night before talking, I found myself up before the alarm.  Another visit to my new morning favorite spot, the Spa, for a steam, shower and shave. Dressed quickly I could enjoy a light breakfast and then headed down to meet Dick and Sandy who were beautifully adorned in full traditional Scottish kilts with bagpipes in hand. 


Along was another gentleman, Harlan, from Milwaukee who had earlier befriended Dick and Sandy.  Our arrival in Halifax was prompt and we were off the Azamara Journey and back on terra firma by 9:30am.  We lost Harlan for a few minutes as got caught taking several photos for passers by of a Halifax guard in traditional kilt next to a TITANIC 100th Anniversary banner.  It was a quick ride to Fairview Cemetery with a brief sightseeing tour on the way, passing the restaurant that was once the SNOW funeral home where so many victims were tended to. 


Our timing was excellent as there were barely a few people there, but many more arrived shortly thereafter. Chills went down my spine and up the back of my neck as  Dick and Sandy began to play Amazing Grace on their bagpipes at this hallowed spot. 


I looked up from my camera monitor and was stunned to see a small crowd that had gathered around me with dozens of cameras, including large news format,  pointed toward this touching memorial. 


The presentation was then repeated, with Dick and Sandy now walking along past each of the small dark grey headstones. The date on every stone, one after the other - whether for a named or for an unknown victim - each read April 15, 1912. 


The taxi was waiting with the meter running, so we headed back towards the center of town. I dropped Dick, Sandy and Harlan off at the Citadel underneath the clock tower and I headed back briefly. My next stop was to the Red Stag Tavern nearby for some of the best Fish n Chips in Nova Scotia and a Lager shandy. 


I learned that my waitress, a lovely young woman named Brianna Kioski had a Great Grandmother, Mara Osman, who was a third class passenger and Survivor on TITANIC. Apparently this relative had come across, like so many immigrants, searching a new life. She was one of the lucky few who made it to CARPATHIA. Ms. Kioski said she had only recently learned of this family history and she that other relatives were recently interviewed for a book.  It has become 1 degree of separation in every direction.


Afterwards I had to stop by the Halifax Museum of the Atlantic to check out the new Cable Ship exhibit that had just opened this morning as well as the Titanic artifacts. 


Many of the items on display were picked up by the cable boats as they pulled bodies out of the water. Included is an actual deck chair, sections of wood, an ornately carved part of the arch above an entrance into the First Class lounge, piece of a column, a pantry cabinet, gloves, and a pair of shoes thought to belong to the Unknown Infant. 


Further Gallery included below.  Regarding this longtime unidentified child, recent DNA testing allowed for a positive ID and a new headstone was added to the Fairview grave of this young victim as Sydney Leslie Goodwin. A wall gallery features close up photographs of 150 headstones of TITANIC victims from several of the local Halifax Cemeteries. 


After the museum it was a nice walk along the Halifax waterfront to grab some more video and stills. Shortly thereafter it was back to the warm comfort of the Azamara Journey drawing room to catch up on my blog entries.


 As 5 o’clock nears and we are getting ready to sail,  I felt a literal chill thinking that after this port our next stop is, indeed, going to be right over TITANIC. 


Perhaps Jack Dawson?
Needless to say, there is a calm sense of normalcy as the evening drew on. A cabaret show, cocktails, folks burning off calories in the Looking glass lounge.  Assorted guests mingled in period costume, constantly drawing attention of cameras. Conversations continue with speculations about what we will encounter as we get closer to Titanic with further discussions about the White Star Liner and her history. 








Monday, April 2, 2012

ICEBERGS!

"April 2nd’s chart show as many as 32 bergs in a quadrant right off the coast of Newfoundland, with a stray berg heading rather far South to 45 N."

One of the multiple reasons CARPATHIA Captain Arthur Henry Rostron decided to head directly to New York with the TITANIC survivors, rather than the closer city of Halifax, was due to the vast spread of ice that would be seen between the Canadian port and the rescue location.  Rostron felt it would be excessively traumatic for the survivors to see any more icebergs and ice floes than necessary.  A northward track would only go deeper into the ice. 




In contemplating the route of this upcoming TITANIC 100th Anniversary Memorial cruise on the Azamara Journey I started to wonder what ice conditions would be like for us in 2012, one hundred years later.  On a standard Great Circle Route between New York and Southampton ships can simply alter their course further south, if necessary, to avoid icebergs.  We, however, are purposely going to Halifax, then direct to TITANIC’s final resting spot of 41°43'57"N, 49°56'49"W, then back to New York.  If icebergs drift south this time of year, there would be no alternate route as we must be at a very specific location! 



A little research brought me to a fascinating Canadian website  http://ice-glaces.ec.gc.ca/ Canadian Ice Service  with endless data about ice coverage, icebergs and weather conditions throughout Canada’s navigable waters.  There you can see overview charts of where ice has spread and then click on regions for a closer look.  In addition, there is a special daily chart that illustrates in latitude and longitudinal squares an analysis of how many icebergs are within each grid.  There is a marked overall range limit for ice sightings.  April 2nd’s chart show as many as 32 bergs in a quadrant right off the coast of Newfoundland, with a stray berg heading rather far South to 45 N. This is still quite a distance away from TITANIC’s location, but there are still almost two weeks left to go until the anniversary when several ships will gather. 


Icebergs are each very unique, however there are some basic descriptive types: "Pinnacle" icebergs have a more mountainous appearance with sharp points or peaks. A "Drydock" iceberg may have two or more heads  above water with a center submerged area creating a lagoon or central area resembling a ship dry dock.  "Wedge" icebergs may be simply a giant wedge of ice with a sharp edge looming out of the sea. "Tabular" icebergs may have a large flat top with steep sides, typically these are massive chunks of ice that break away from ice shelves. 


Supposedly, this is the iceberg that TITANIC hit.
From various witness reports the iceberg that supposedly collided with TITANIC was a non-tabular, possibly  pinnacle type berg.  Some thought that a sailing ship was going past at a close distance because of three distinct peaks, one smaller on the left and right, with a taller peak in the middle which looked like the masts of a boat.  The following day, other witnesses claim that a berg matching this description had scrapings of red paint bearing the battle scars of an incursion. 


Personally, I think it would be incredible to see real icebergs. Even J Bruce Ismay testified that he had never in his life seen icebergs prior to the morning of April 15th 1912. However, no doubt everyone on board these anniversary voyages would be more comfortable if any drifting ice was at a very safe distance.  No one wants a repeat of the horrors from a century before.