Day 2 - First Full Day At Sea - Lectures & Conversation

"Bill Miller delighted with his vibrant style as he took the stage with a much brighter look at the Grand Ocean Liners of yesteryear, the 'Floating Palaces'.” 

Up relatively early Wednesday morning, I took advantage of the cozy spa facilities on Azamara Journey.  As a complimentary service one can use the octagonal steam room adjacent to the showers. Very modern, recessed halogen lights that create illuminated columns in the mist.  A morning steam is not only relaxing, but opens the pores so your skin can breath... or at least that’s what the brochure says! The showers are significantly larger in the Spa than in the cabins, plus the high end shampoos and body wash are very nice. 













At 9:25am there was an announcement made that John Langley’s talk on Halifax was going to start in five minutes time. John is President of the World Cunard Historical Society, and a lifetime Halifax resident.  I swore he had said his lecture was moved from 10am to 10:30am.  


I made a mad dash to grab a croissant and then headed towards the Cabaret where John was already underway with his fascinating history of this vital Nova Scotia seaport. His presentation was accompanied by a wonderful slide presentation. Turns out that Bill and I, embarrassingly became “one of those people” that simply did not read directions about a one hour clock advance that had occurred last night. This was in spite of the fact that an adorable purser had informed us, in no uncertain terms, that the time would not change until Wednesday night!!  We both should know much better by now!

John’s presentation created an excitement and almost urgency about seeing Halifax, but then turned from a general history to much more of a deep connection between the city and TITANIC. And it became a particularly dark side of that history.  New York was chosen as the best port to bring the survivors, which holds some sense of optimism and life out of the tragedy. 

Mackay - Bennett
Museum of the Atlantic Collection

However, Halifax is where so many of the bodies were brought by cable ships that were best suited for the job. These ships were part of the massive efforts to lay the early transatlantic cables that allowed faster communication between the continents, an incredible new technology.  

Undertaker William Snow preparing a body on MINIA.
Museum of the Atlantic Collection

John showed many photographs of the preparations on board these ships to bring the bodies back and talked of how the first 200 on some ships were buried at sea, mostly out of a lack of deck space. Gruesome images were projected of canvas body bags, reserved for mostly steerage passengers and crew with wood caskets for the first class victims. Even in death there was such a separation.  Further description of how the Cable boats thought they were hitting small chunks of ice as they arrived at the scene, only to discover they were bodies. Smaller rowboats were deployed from the Mackay-Bennett, for example, filled to capacity, their cargo tossed onto the large vessel, then back for more. Seemingly endless trips. 

Body Bag #41, Halifax Museum of the Atlantic. 

Then “illegal” photographs of the horse drawn hearses carting the bodies away in Halifax, partially hidden behind canvas barriers to keep gawking crowds from seeing the activity. Then and now photos of locations where bodies were stored and embalmed - a curling rink that was used as a temporary morgue because of the ice on the floors.  


Further images show Fairview Cemetery where the largest number of victims are interred. Truly a somber introduction to where we are going and harsh reminder of why we are on this voyage. A deep sadness filled my heart. 

Later, Bill Miller delighted with his vibrant style as he took the stage with a much brighter look at the Grand Ocean Liners of yesteryear, the “Floating Palaces”.  As many times as I have watched and adored Bill Miller in action, I never tire of his glamourous take on the elegance that was Ocean Liner travel. I love watching the crowds, many now new life long fans listening with rapt attention, laughing at his ingenious punch lines as he sails his audience back to another time.   


I helped man the “book shop” table and nearly most of his books were sold out before Bill ever uttered a word.  I was particularly pleased that a healthy supply of my DVD documentary of Bill “MR OCEAN LINER” also quickly sold out! 


Later at afternoon tea with John Langley, his lovely wife Judy, and some other guests we  found ourselves engrossed in further discussions of Maritime history, Titanic lore, Marconi communications and codes and speculation about ways that history has repeated. 


After dinner a Captain’s reception, typical on most sailing these days, introduced the top brass on Azamara Journey. All along, all day have been the Cameramen from CNN, German television, the reporter and photographer from New York Post. In between I have been capturing my own video digest of the events. Lastly, a  moving Chopin concert by a wonderful pianist who was also a friend of Bill Miller.  I was then introduced to a couple from Montana that brought along their bagpipes and who wanted to play some music at Fairview Cemetery in the morning.  I told them I would be happy to go along and record this little memorial. We made plans to meet by the Grand Staircase at 9:30am the next day.  Hopefully there will be no more time changes!


The night rounded off in the Lookout where a corner of this forward bar, with floor to ceiling windows on the front of the ship, was taken over by a small group enjoying a range of music from Journey to Abba.  Even there, with green and red laser lights flashing around the room, glinting off the sloped glass while FERNANDO played in the background, the conversation again turned to why so many of us, for various reasons, are all on this ship together heading towards the final resting spot of TITANIC.  

For many it is an unexplained life long connection. One couple flew all the way from Sydney, Australia to be here.  We also talked about how many have had conversations with others back home who have commented that it is “sick” or “ strange” to want to be at the site of TITANIC on the 100th Anniversary. We all voiced the same response that this is, by no means, a joy trip.  Although there are those who have chosen to express their love and fascination for all things TITANIC in their period dress or expression, no one is “celebrating”. There is a very serious deep respect for the horror of what occurred 100 years ago. This voyage is, indeed, a memorial, a chance to pay respects to the memory of these lives and this history. And in the process we are also making new friends that share a common bond. 

April 10th - Day 1/Part II - Sail Away TITANICA

"Famed artist Ken Marschall and his entourage then wander past and I’m introduced. Conversation ensues about the quality of the original photographs used in the mosaics of the TITANIC wreck."

Check in and boarding was a remarkably simple process. With only a little over 450 passengers on Azamara Journey  there were no lines at all.  The main departure hall of Pier 88 was specially decorated with a row of welcome banners featuring larger than life size portraits of several historic figures from TITANIC. J. Bruce Ismay, Molly Brown, Captain E J Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Isadore Straus.  


Azamara Journey is a small but beautiful ship. Well, at least small when compared to my more regular venue of the Queen Mary 2! My first impression from the inside is that the Journey exceptionally Edwardian in style. Carved woodwork, elegant details, brass railings, marble, very well suited for this special type of voyage.  


I first dropped off my bags in the cabin, grabbing my video camera and tripod.  One quick call and I found Bill Miller up on Deck 9, pool deck with Harry Liu, the Manager of Royal Caribbean Public Relations, whom, it turns out, was actually was one of Bill’s students many years ago in Hoboken, NJ. I was also introduced to Andrew Phare, the chief representative on board of Miles Morgan Travel, the organizers of this 100th Anniversary sailing,  as well as the Balmoral voyage which left Southampton heading Eastbound to rendezvous with us this Saturday, April 14th over TITANIC.  We quickly learned that the Balmoral had to return back towards the United Kingdom for an Air Evacuation due to an urgent illness onboard. This news was shortly blasted from BBC America over the televisions. 


The atmosphere is exceptionally friendly.  Many folks were already attracting instant attention by strolling the decks in period costume. Ladies with large feathered hats and busseled skirts on the arms of men with bowlers were turning heads and camera lenses.  CNN is covering the developing events as well as the New York Post, some radio stations and several international correspondents. 


There is already some talk and interest from the organizers to possibly do a reading of excerpts of my play 41W 50N next week as we head back to New York after the memorial. It seems chilling, yet perfectly suited to tell this story here, from the perspective of those trying to get facts and discover the truth following this horrific tragedy. 


We slowly pulled away from the dock and made our way down the Hudson River, just as the OLYMPIC did just about 100 years ago. Many more gathered at the rails under a cool, breezy New York sky. Bill Miller immediately drew crowds as he indicated the now TGI Fridays style blue, red and white painted piers where TITANIC was supposed to have docked. Others overhearing would then ask more questions and “Mr. Ocean Liner” himself began to enthrall more and more with his vast knowledge of not only all things Maritime, but the very history of New York; pointing out, for example, the Pier where CARPATHIA arrived and the nearby hotel where many of the survivors were accommodated.  

Already the folks on board are absolutely fascinating. Two separate couples had relatives who missed TITANIC and ended up on other ships, one who had a relative on CARPATHIA.  Ten year old Maya and her Mom came on this voyage as Maya has been enthralled with TITANIC ever since seeing Cameron’s film two years ago.  A woman and her friend who went to TITANIC site in 1996 when an expedition tried to raise a section of TITANIC’s shattered hull, only to have it sink again over 2 miles deep.  When asked by a reporter from a German television station why the fascination with TITANIC she replied “Reincarnation.. so many people have had to be there... there must be a past life connection”.  Another gentleman had the White Star Line flag tattooed on the back of his calf! For some it is a total obsession with the history and facts.  


I have always loved all things Ocean Liners and have had an appreciation for TITANIC ever since Walter Lord, author of A NIGHT TO REMEMBER, spoke at my school when I was eight. However, for me it is a fascination, not an obsession. In an odd way, the thought that came to mind is it’s like being at a Star Trek convention if you loved the TV show, but are not necessarily a full blown Trekker. 


After sailing past the new World Trade Center tower, now soaring up to 100 stories, past Ellis Island, Statue of Liberty, then underneath the Verazzano Bridge, it was time to unpack and settle in.  Folks seemed to disappear for a while, exhausted from the day’s travel, coming from all over, California, Canada, United Kingdom, Belgium, Germany and beyond.  Dinner was relaxed and delightful as Bill and I were joined by John Langley, President of the World Cunard Historical Society and his wife Judy, both from Halifax. John is one of the other lecturers on board with talks on his home port and a keen insight into the heroic actions of Captain Henry Rostron and the Cunard Liner CARPATHIA, among other discussions. 


After an evening wandering around the ship, I found myself with laptop in hand in the beautiful period style wood paneled Library where a lone passenger was softly playing a sleek black grand piano under a tapestried hand painted glass skylight that looks like something out of a grand White Star Liner. Famed artist Ken Marschall and his entourage then wander past and I’m introduced. Conversation ensues about the quality of the original photographs used in the mosaics of the TITANIC wreck dating back to the Bob Ballard days. Of course, Ken’s intricate drawings, created from thousands of photographs and videos, painted a much more accurate and stunning view of the entire ship as she lay on the bottom. His artistic mastery is simply legendary.  This is all rather surreal and delightful.

April 10th - Day 1/Part 1 - Morning Departure

"Too much time sitting on the train, watching the scenery fly by, thinking about what is to come.  Christmas morning was like this when I was a child before my parents woke up."

Up at 7:30am to finish packing and gather all last minute items together.  Could not find my check list and made note to self "Remember next time to put don't lose check list on the check list".  At this point in time I'm still sitting on Amtrak, which was 40 minutes late.  I considered taking the US Airways shuttle from Washington National Airport, but ultimately the train was more convenience without dealing with DC rush hour traffic. Happily, Craig kept me company as the anticipation built, waiting for that sight of the Northeast Direct coming around the bend.


Almost a three hour ride up to Penn Station in Manhattan. Too much time sitting on the train, watching the scenery fly by, thinking about what is to come.  Christmas morning was like this when I was a child before my parents woke up.  I had to sit impatiently waiting to open up the presents.

TravelWithVal.com

Bill Miller has already been on the ship for hours. Royal Caribbean, the parent company of Azamara, sent a car for Bill at 6:30am so he could appear on a morning news program. Another video interview Travel With Val hosted by Valarie D'Elia will be taped at some point today.  Val has a great website and her videos also appear on NY1. So the press is buzzing about.


So the plan is to grab a taxi on 8th Avenue once in the city and make my way to Pier 88. I'd like to be able to check in, drop my stuff off in the cabin, then head off again for a moment to capture some video of the Azamara Journey from the exterior. Bill and I arranged to connect by cell phone to figure out where to find each other.  Of course, plans change!


For now, just passing the time..taking advantage of the Wi-Fi on Amtrak and writing this little update.  More to follow....

Check Lists & Preparations

"Taxes were filed as I’ll be at sea on the 17th April. Online registration completed with Azamara to obtain my Xpress Boarding Pass for Tuesday"

As I get closer to departure, my blog is most likely going to take on a more personal “journalistic” tone. More accounts of sights, sounds and thoughts, rather than historical profiles.  My hope is to be able to share the experience, the ship, the people connected with this journey, the events, the dinners, the talks and new friends about to be made. Just wondering how this is all going to fall into place and how the reality of what is to come will jive with what I have envisioned. Feelings are bubbling to the surface.. anticipation, excitement, apprehension... mixed emotions as this long awaited sailing date is now only two days away. 

A little panic is setting in as I try to gather all the various items required to take along, as well as organize what needs to be taken care of at home. Taxes were filed as I’ll be at sea on the 17th April. Online registration completed with Azamara to obtain my Xpress Boarding Pass for Tuesday.  Credit card and passport details entered and luggage tags arrived in the mail.

I have been compiling a vital check list so as not to forget anything. Earlier, I had to go through my wardrobe making sure any clothing that needed dry cleaning was sent out in time and now adding to the check list a note to pick everything up again!  I still have to select exactly what to bring, how many layers. Halifax, our first stop, has been in the 30’s with an anticipated high of 50 for Thursday.  The North Atlantic can still be quite cold this time of year, as it was 100 years ago. At present, Marine Weather Forecasts show anticipated waves between 3-5 meters at TITANIC site with high pressure and winds between 10-15 knots, Sea tempurature between 46-50 F.

My challenge is to try and pack everything in a manageable size suitcase and carry-on. It’s not exactly like in 1912 when a steamer trunk was standard fare. I will also be taking along additional equipment to record this event, video blog, interviews with Mr. Miller and others willing to be put on tape.  In addition to my HD video camera, along comes a new tripod, rechargeable camera lights, wireless microphone as well as laptop. I need to make sure all power cables, adapters, headsets, batteries & lots of video tape are packed.

In between, I’d like to straighten up the house a little, clean those piles of papers and mail off the dining room table!  On top of everything before I leave for New York and Manhattan Cruise Terminal, Pier 88 (the same pier where the NORMANDIE burned and capsized),  I have to make a quick visit to the Dentist to have a permanent crown exchanged for the temporary one still in my head!

It all manages to get done, but time always seems fleeting... more installments to follow as the real adventure is about to begin.... 

James Cameron's TITANIC IMAX 3-D

"You become a part of the action, walking down decks, flying in the air above the massive liner, descending the Grand Staircase, clinging to a railing for life, or staring up as the huge propellers loom overhead"

Bill Paxton as Treasure Hunter Brock Lovett in James Cameron’s TITANIC states towards the end of the film that for several years he could never “let TITANIC” in”. After hearing the emotional story of Rose DeWitt Bukater, set against the historically accurate details of this famous maritime disaster, Lovett finally understands the deeper significance of what happened on the night of April 14th 1912. This sentiment seems to directly echo Cameron’s own statements that he had very set ideas about the RMS TITANIC while repeatedly going down in deep ocean submersibles to initially film for his blockbuster hit. However, it was not until Cameron himself “let TITANIC in” that he said the pieces started to fall into place. 

In spite of this almost over saturation of TITANIC history as the 100th Anniversary of her Maiden Voyage and horrific sinking draws close, I think seeing Cameron’s IMAX 3-D re-release of TITANIC made me feel that I could perhaps begin to “get it” myself. 

This new 3-D version is more than spectacular. The detailed work of Cameron and his phenomenal team to technically modify the original film is simply mind blowing. Apart from the fictionalized story of Jack and Rose, the three dimensional rendering draws you into TITANIC as if you are really there.    Rather than just watching a film, you become a part of the action, walking down decks, flying in the air above the massive liner, descending the Grand Staircase, clinging to a railing for life, or staring up as the huge propellers loom overhead before crashing down on hundreds of struggling victims below.  The true beauty of this infamous White Star Liner is breath taking, as is the sheer horror of what happened.
  

On a very personal level I felt a very surreal connection, far more emotional than anticipated. Apart from a lifetime interest in Ocean Liners and all things TITANIC, I have now spent almost a year working on 41W 50 N, my new play adaptation based on the true voices from the 1912 TITANIC Senate Hearings. Dissecting over 1,100 pages of actual testimony I feel I have been living with many of these people portrayed.  

In December of 1997 when I watched the first version of TITANIC I had yet to make a Transatlantic Crossing. I never imagined that a little over 10 years later I would be on the Queen Elizabeth 2 shooting a documentary and participating in a rare TITANIC Memorial passing directly over the site of TITANIC on her 96th Anniversary. 


I had no idea that I would one day lecture for Cunard Line and make multiple crossings back and forth between New York and Southampton, each time passing within miles of TITANIC. Nor could I dream of going to the site of TITANIC for the 100th Anniversary. 


Cameron’s 3-D re-release so beautifully recreates the true sensations of a grand liner voyage that it catapults the experience from 100 years ago to present day. Perhaps, in reverse, it transports us back in time to momentarily walk those decks and watch the frothy wake slip away towards a distant horizon. 

TITANIC 3-D brought to the surface all the immediacy of the tragedy, leaving me devastated and even a little bit apprehensive of what it will be like to stand on the very spot, 100 years later to the very hour, where so many suffered.  It’s a brilliant film and a stunning experience, but be prepared. 

Unsinkable "Molly" Brown - Profile

"Margaret Brown helped create the the Colorado chapter of the National American Woman Suffrage Association. It is written that Margaret Brown had a great passion for politics and ran for the Senate many years before women actually had the right to vote."

Born in 1867, Margaret Brown was destined to leave her mark in history, thrust into the record books because of her bravery and outspoken style.   On the night of April 14th 1912, while many perished in the freezing waters of the north Atlantic when TITANIC split in two and plummeted over 12,000 feet to the bottom, many became heroes, including Brown.

Robert Hichens

Prior to leaving TITANIC, it is written that Brown was instrumental in helping others into lifeboats.  Once set adrift in Lifeboat #6 and hearing Captain Smith’s calls for lifeboats to return to TITANIC to save more souls, Brown became a champion; demanding that the boat she was in be turned around. Quartermaster Robert Hichens, fearful of the lifeboat being turned over by frantic passengers thrashing in the icy water challenged Brown’s efforts. There are opposing accounts of whether or not Brown was successful in going back and rescuing anyone else. Needless to say, Mrs. Brown demonstrated great leadership, taking the oars and encouraging other to row.

TITANIC Lifeboat #6

JJ Brown

Separated only a few years prior from her husband James Joseph “JJ” Brown, Margaret was living off a cash settlement and monthly allowance, ample to maintain a comfortable lifestyle that included world travel.   However, her life started with more humble beginnings in Missouri as  the daughter of Irish Immigrants. JJ Brown, an engineer, was not wealthy when the two met and fell in love, but would make his fortune in Mining.  The couple had two children, Franklin and Kathy.  


Always a social activist, showing great leadership, Margaret Brown helped create the the Colorado chapter of the National American Woman Suffrage Association. Margaret Brown had a great passion for politics and ran for the Senate many years before women actually had the right to vote.

Photo: Historum.com Halomanuk

While on a trip to Europe and North Africa, where Mrs. Brown had just spent a great deal of time with her daughter, along with John Jacob Astor and his entourage, word came through that Brown’s young grandchild was ill back in the United States. TITANIC was the earliest ship back home.  Rather than leave from Southampton, Margaret Brown was one of many who took the SS Nomadic (now being restored in France) which tendered passengers from Cherbourg to TITANIC.

Broadway Production Playbill

Apparently, Mrs. Margaret Brown was always known to her closest friends as “Maggie”. The names “Molly” and “Unsinkable” were the creation of writers after her death in 1932.  Bearing little resemblance to the real Margaret Brown, Richard Morris, also of “Thoroughly Modern Millie” fame, penned the Broadway musical “The Unsinkable Molly Brown” starring Tammy Grimes. A subsequent Hollywood film of the same title would star Debbie Reynolds.   Many others would portray “Molly Brown” over the years in various incarnations, including Kathy Bates in the immensely popular James Cameron film TITANIC.   Needless to say, although Margaret Brown was truly recognized for her lifetime achievements as a philanthropist and leader, it is still, perhaps, her heroism at 41 West and 50 North that eventually brought her greatest fame.

Photo: James Cameron's TITANIC

ICEBERGS!

"April 2nd’s chart show as many as 32 bergs in a quadrant right off the coast of Newfoundland, with a stray berg heading rather far South to 45 N."

One of the multiple reasons CARPATHIA Captain Arthur Henry Rostron decided to head directly to New York with the TITANIC survivors, rather than the closer city of Halifax, was due to the vast spread of ice that would be seen between the Canadian port and the rescue location.  Rostron felt it would be excessively traumatic for the survivors to see any more icebergs and ice floes than necessary.  A northward track would only go deeper into the ice. 




In contemplating the route of this upcoming TITANIC 100th Anniversary Memorial cruise on the Azamara Journey I started to wonder what ice conditions would be like for us in 2012, one hundred years later.  On a standard Great Circle Route between New York and Southampton ships can simply alter their course further south, if necessary, to avoid icebergs.  We, however, are purposely going to Halifax, then direct to TITANIC’s final resting spot of 41°43'57"N, 49°56'49"W, then back to New York.  If icebergs drift south this time of year, there would be no alternate route as we must be at a very specific location! 

A little research brought me to a fascinating Canadian website  http://ice-glaces.ec.gc.ca/ Canadian Ice Service  with endless data about ice coverage, icebergs and weather conditions throughout Canada’s navigable waters.  There you can see overview charts of where ice has spread and then click on regions for a closer look.  In addition, there is a special daily chart that illustrates in latitude and longitudinal squares an analysis of how many icebergs are within each grid.  There is a marked overall range limit for ice sightings.  April 2nd’s chart show as many as 32 bergs in a quadrant right off the coast of Newfoundland, with a stray berg heading rather far South to 45 N. This is still quite a distance away from TITANIC’s location, but there are still almost two weeks left to go until the anniversary when several ships will gather. 

Icebergs are each very unique, however there are some basic descriptive types: "Pinnacle" icebergs have a more mountainous appearance with sharp points or peaks. A "Drydock" iceberg may have two or more heads  above water with a center submerged area creating a lagoon or central area resembling a ship dry dock.  "Wedge" icebergs may be simply a giant wedge of ice with a sharp edge looming out of the sea. "Tabular" icebergs may have a large flat top with steep sides, typically these are massive chunks of ice that break away from ice shelves. 

Supposedly, this is the iceberg that TITANIC hit.

From various witness reports the iceberg that supposedly collided with TITANIC was a non-tabular, possibly  pinnacle type berg.  Some thought that a sailing ship was going past at a close distance because of three distinct peaks, one smaller on the left and right, with a taller peak in the middle which looked like the masts of a boat.  The following day, other witnesses claim that a berg matching this description had scrapings of red paint bearing the battle scars of an incursion. 


Personally, I think it would be incredible to see real icebergs. Even J Bruce Ismay testified that he had never in his life seen icebergs prior to the morning of April 15th 1912. However, no doubt everyone on board these anniversary voyages would be more comfortable if any drifting ice was at a very safe distance.  No one wants a repeat of the horrors from a century before.